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The Rinconada

November 6, 2011

We went over to an area called the Rinconada yesterday. It’s a street a few blocks long with shops and restaurants along one side of it, a little like a (more picturesque than normal) strip mall. Michael has been looking specifically for a copy of Murakami’s The Wind Up Bird Chronicle, to re-read, and we’d heard tell of an English-language lending library at the Rinconada.

It’s open only three days a week, from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m, and it’s run by volunteers. They’ve actually got quite a good selection, but unfortunately no Wind Up Bird Chronicle. Alas, Michael will have to wait for the Kindle ebook to arrive on his hold at the Brooklyn Public Library.

We had a delicious (although expensive-for-here: $20!) lunch at El Cafecito, which has two outposts in Puerto Escondido: the one at the Rinconada, and another along the beachfront road called Calle Del Morro in Zicatela, in front of the thumping beachbreak.

The prices are a little high, but for $20 we got quite a lot: two large fresh mixed fruit juices, an appetizer of chips and guacamole, a veggie sandwich with salad, and a sauteed mahi mahi sandwich with fries and salad.

After lunch, even though we were stuffed, we had to visit the chocolate shop and have a truffle each, plus share a piece of dense chocolate cake.

The slice of cake we had was one third of that portion in the photo.

We’ve seen these cool chairs around here, that are made from an iron frame and colorful vinyl strips. They’re pretty comfortable. The chocolate shop has a few of them, including small child-sized versions that are so adorable.

Cute graffiti on the wall at the Rinconada:

Funny pink pimped-out VW bug we saw there:

Michael’s foot is looking much better. It’s taken longer than we expected, because the wound didn’t seem to have been stitched up as tightly as it should have, but he has been walking without crutches for the past two days, and the cut now looks all closed up. Hopefully he’ll be back in the water in the next 2 or 3 days.

The waves have been good this past week, consistently head high to a couple of feet overhead. The forecast doesn’t show the waves dying down that much over the next ten days. It’s tempting to just hole up here for the rest of the trip, what with the amazing food, cheap cost of living and incredibly consistent, fun waves. The only downside is the amount of people in the water: from 8 a.m. on, there are at least 15 to 20 surfers all crowded onto the point, and about half of them are locals who have the spot totally wired and can take off deeper than any tourists. I’ve been waking up earlier and earlier to beat the crowds. Today at 6 a.m. there were only 4 people out and I caught a lot of good waves.

We’re thinking of heading to a spot called Chacahua in a couple of weeks, that we’ve heard has a good, uncrowded right point. It’s a bit of a haul (an hour by bus and another hour by boat) but it’s on a lagoon, and is supposed to be very beautiful.  We are contemplating skipping Nicaragua and either going to Mal Pais in Costa Rica, or doing a combo of Mal Pais and staying in Mexico and checking out a couple of other spots (Chacahua, and we’ve also heard Barra de la Cruz is less crowded). Nicaragua doesn’t seem to get consistent surf in November/December, because the coastline kind of wraps inwards and isn’t exposed to north swells. Mal Pais is supposed to have year-round swell, because it’s at the tip of the Nicoya peninsula and can catch north swells. And we are currently witnessing that this part of Mexico is very consistent!

Tomorrow is the one-month mark of our trip. We’ll do a little post on whether we’ve been able to stay on budget or not… Hasta luego!

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2 Comments leave one →
  1. November 6, 2011 10:17 pm

    glad your foot is healing up ok michael!
    i’m headed to cali next tuesday for the beginning of my jaunt
    i’m pretty psyched
    we had some good waves here this week
    rockaway was in fine form wed, thu and fri
    with some head high sets…
    never the less winter is slowly setting in
    6/5/4 is the norm now and sun is setting at 5pm
    the only upside to all of that
    is the crowds have thinned out
    and there is only a handful of people in the water now…

  2. Wendy permalink
    November 7, 2011 10:04 am

    I didn’t really like Mal Pais. Crowded and too cool for school. But I know others have liked it so maybe I am wrong!

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